Laps on the Grand
By Peder Ourom
Reprinted from Canadian Alpine Journal 1994 with author’s permission
5 a.m.: As we leave home the game plan decision is reached during a lull between songs: let's Ram! A little sleepy, the early morning coffee hits are just starting to take effect. The caffeine will have to carry us until the endorphins take over. The skies clear and the parking lot is empty, so we run to the base. Hamish slips on his shoes and leaps on the rock, his psyche has been building for this one for years. We begin to set the routine for the climb, fourth class to the Pillar, followed by furious jamming and liebacking to the flats, then a quick shuffle up the last three pitches to Bellygood ledge. Warmed up now, our blood really starts to flow as we race across the edge, down the slabs and trail, and then along on the road and finally back up to the base. It is not yet 7 a.m.
During the second pass we begin fine tuning on the route. All movements become precise and efficient as energy conservation becomes the number one priority. No time today for approved indoor belays; a pause here and there is all we need to reach the steep rock. Hamish puts a single piece in the Pillar this time around, and it makes me feel better. Now it will only be a I00-footer onto my belay if he greases off. We're flying. Not even pausing to wipe off the sweat that's pouring into our eyes. Even faster than El Capitan storm paranoia speed. As we run down, it's becoming clear our bodies are in for a hammering. The days spent hiking this season are going to pay back big time.
By the start of the third lap, a couple of problems have appeared. First, the sky has clouded over. Secondly, another party is starting up route. We had wanted to climb Apron Strings on all the laps, but seeing our chance we take it and race to the top of the flake. Luckily we know them (Team Ray), and they help by letting us move past. This time around the Pillar becomes painful, and the Sword sharper. The bolts on the Batman Ropes have become crucial footholds, and we're moaning on the lieback onto the Flats. On the descent our legs are starting to lose it a bit. Back at Psyche Ledge we take a one-minute rehydration break. Drinking Gatorade like this makes me want to throw up.
At the base on the fourth go around, we know it is going to rain. Our bodies find new strengths to avoid being caught on the wall with only one rope for rappelling. At the base of the Flats, we pass Team Ray for the second time. By I p.m. we reach Bellygood in a light drizzle which soon turns torrential. With four down but no chance at a fifth, that seemed to be the end of it. By habit we move out onto the descent slabs instead of taking the trees, and are forced to use clothing friction to avoid the void. Thirty tense minutes later we arrive soaked at the backside trail. We move on to Derek's cafe for a late lunch, looking and smelling bad. By 4 p.m. our stomachs are full, and the streets have dried out, so we head back to the Chief.
At the base the air is super humid and the rock wet, but we decide to go for it anyway. A little more concentration on the wet fourth to the Pillar is in order, at least the holds are familiar. Primeval grunting follows as we lurch our lunches up to steep cracks once again. The Pillar and Sword have become brutal and the Batman Ropes are even worse. With arms like my thighs, Hamish moves up to the flats and soon we're pulling our traumatized bodies onto Bellygood for the fifth time. Fifty-five pitches of 5.8 to 5.11 equals two very burnt bodies. It will be a week until I can walk properly, and two weeks before Hamish's arms function normally.