Accident report: Fatality
Location: Smoke Bluffs, Squamish, BC
Route: The Zip. Grade:  10B
Date: Spring-Summer 2023

Nothing has ever been reported on this incident, however from personal involvement with the Squamish Fire Rescue cleanup on the following day I have  a pretty good idea what happened.

A male climber in his mid twenties from the Lower Mainland was leading the zip, with his belayer on the terrace that is 6m above the ground level base of the route.

The climber started up the route placing protection,  and then committed to a small lead out to the resting stance that is 10 m above the terrace. . The rock here is very slick for climbing, and although the cam placements are good it is difficult to stop and place them.

At the top of the small lead out the climber fell, and possibly one piece of protection failed. The climber then impacted the rock 2m above the ground level base, and struck his head on the rock. It is unknown if he was wearing a helmet.

As no rope rescue was involved, Squamish Fire Rescue was tasked and responded to the incident. The climber had extensive head injuries , including obvious skull fractures. After stabilization the climber was transported to the Squamish hospital, and then taken to the lower mainland for additional treatment.  Unfortunately  his injuries were so severe that he was taken off life support a few days later.

Contributing factors:

  • slick rock

  • hot and greasy conditions ?

  • compromised belay on terrace

  • lack of helmet ?

  • inexperience placing cams from awkward and strenuous stances

Accident Report: Near miss
Location: Smoke Bluffs, Squamish, BC
Cliff: Free and Easy
Route: Range Ball Wreckers. Grade: 11D
Date: Fall 2024

This is one of the most preventable near misses that I have seen in 50 years of climbing.

A large group of 10 climbers was at the base of the route when the mid twenties female leader started up the climb. It was immediately obvious that she was on a climb well beyond her skill level.

She struggled to get gear off her harness, and also had difficulties picking the correct size of cam. For the entire lead she was in a very dangerous situation.

With her hands on the large rest hold at the end of the steep finger crack section 12m above the start, she started to panic, and threw her right foot above her head in an indoor sport climbing move. Her foot was now twisted around the rope.

At this moment she fell off, the trapped foot inverted her fall, and the top poorly placed cam pulled. Head first she stopped 1m above the ground, and was uninjured. If the pulled cam had been slightly lower or the belayer let a tiny bit more rope play out she would have been killed or paralysed.

Contributing factors:

  • poor group dynamics and communications ( no one commented to get her foot away from the rope )

  • inexperience leading gear routes / poor route choice

  • treating gear placements the same as bolts

  • poor gear organization